Hyperpigmentation. A term that gets thrown around a lot when it comes to skin, and I’m sure it’s not just me who has questions — like, a lot of questions.
What actually is it? What should I do about it? Is my skin type more prone to developing it?
With the launch of the new Mela B3 Niacinamide Serum for Dark Spots by La Roche-Posay, we thought it would be the perfect time to help clear up some of the confusion, so we can feel more confident in how we look after our skin.
I took all our questions about skin hyperpigmentation to dermatologist Dr Michelle Rodrigues, who came through with some stellar expert advice, including how to best structure a routine to target uneven skin tone.
What is hyperpigmentation and what causes it?
"Hyperpigmentation comes in many shapes and forms. 'Hyperpigmentation' is not a diagnosis, but rather a term that describes skin that is darker than that person’s normal skin type," said Dr Rodrigues.
Right! No wonder the word is thrown around a lot — it can mean something different for everyone. "There are well over 45 causes of hyperpigmentation on the face alone. Each looks subtly different to the naked eye, is caused by different things and requires different treatment approaches," shared Dr Rodrigues.
Some common examples include dark spots, freckles and melasma. All of these present in their own way and can cause pigmentation changes that are brown, pink, red or even grey patches.
Dr Rodrigues also said, "In those with darker skin types, commonly called 'skin of colour', hyperpigmentation can result after any inflammation in the skin. This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation."
If you commonly experience breakouts and pimples on your skin, you’re probably quite familiar with how different your skin can look once the actual breakout has healed. "Acne (pimples) is one of the commonest causes of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation," adds Dr Rodrigues.
How do you know if you should be treating your hyperpigmentation?
If you’re concerned about dark spots or changes in your skin, the best first step is to get it looked at by a healthcare professional.
"Pigmentation is often viewed as a cosmetic concern, but it’s not; it is a medical concern. Before targeting your pigmentation, it is always best to first get a diagnosis to one, make sure it is pigmentation, and two, to understand what type of pigmentation it is," shared Dr Rodrigues.
What ingredients help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation?
Once you’ve seen your healthcare professional and understand what type of pigmentation you’re dealing with, you can look to skincare to help work towards a more even skin tone.
"Oldies but goodies are niacinamide, azelaic acid and retinoids. Melasyl, the new multi-patented ingredient in La Roche-Posay’s Mela B3 Serum, is of course the new kid on the block with a completely new way of reducing hyperpigmentation," said Dr Rodrigues.
"There are literally hundreds of other ingredients that have been reported to help hyperpigmentation. But the ones above are what I would look for," adds Dr Rodrigues.
The Mela B3 Serum contains both 10 per cent niacinamide and new ingredient melasyl, which has been developed with dermatologists over more than 18 years of research. It has a unique mode of action compared to other actives, targeting dark spots before they appear.
Are there certain skin types, tones or conditions that are more prone to developing hyperpigmentation?
Everyone with skin experiences conditions that can lead to uneven skin tone and pigmentation changes, such as breakouts and UV exposure, but do some of us need to be a little more vigilant?
"Yes, skin of colour (this means non-Caucasian skin) is more prone to pigmentation. Melanocytes (pigment cells) are more active, reactive and susceptible to damage in those with skin of colour," shared Dr Rodrigues.
Of course, if you have a skin condition such as melasma or have acne prone skin, then you’re also more likely to deal with these changes in pigmentation.
Is it better to target hyperpigmentation in your morning or evening skincare routine?
The good news is that targeting hyperpigmentation doesn’t have to be complex or involve heaps of steps. You can also support your skin in both your morning and evening routines — so of course, I asked Dr Rodrigues for her advice on putting together a dark spot busting roster.
First up is your cleanser, which can be used in the morning as you need and as your first step at night. Dr Rodrigues recommends a "gentle, fragrance-free cleanser with ceramides".
Then you can introduce your active ingredient step, which is going to help actually address what’s going on with your skin.
"An antioxidant like niacinamide is best used in the morning, and adding a pigment corrector at night is also key to targeting pigment concerns," shared Dr Rodrigues.
You can follow this up with your moisturiser of choice and, of course, your SPF for the day.
"Ensuring an SPF with UVA and UVB protection is always included in your skincare routine is a good start to targeting hyperpigmentation.
"The key is to use gentle, fragrance-free products while nourishing the skin barrier and protecting it from the elements," adds Dr Rodrigues.
How long before can you expect to see skin results?
The best thing you can do for pigmentation is to start targeting it as soon as you notice it.
"Pigmentation is one of the hardest skin concerns to manage, and the most important step in your skincare routine to help you see results sooner is protection from ultraviolet light," shared Dr Rodrigues.
While skincare like the Mela B3 Serum can start to give you visible results from just one week, it’s important to remember that your skin is unique to you and not to compare your results to anyone else’s journey.
There we have it! Expert answers and advice on all your most pressing questions about hyperpigmentation so that you can make the best decisions for your skin concerns. Brighter days ahead indeed!
Shop La Roche-Posay's Mela B3 Niacinamide Serum for Dark Spots online.
The visible one-week results of the Mela B3 Serum are based on a consumer self-assessment with 72 subjects.
Feature Image: Instagram/@morgansskinjournal/Supplied.