Here's exactly what you need to know about encapsulated retinol.

Whether you’re a seasoned skincare user or you’re freshly sashaying onto the scene, there’s bound to be a few words around that feel a little buzzy and make your head spin. There’s one word I specifically have in mind – and I have no doubt it’s sent you into a frenzy before – and that would be: retinol.

In a world where we are victims to information overload, and we would rather skip the digestion period and cut straight to the facts, it can be difficult to know where to look for the right answers. Retinol has always sounded so intimidating because of the constant influx of competing information. How much you should use, how much you shouldn’t use – I can see why people run in the other direction, dropping it into the “too-hard basket” as they go.

Instead, I’m going to pull it right out of that basket and break it down for you, so that you never have to shrivel up with uncertainty around that word again. 

What to look for when choosing retinol 

Because retinol comes in all different strengths, for both seasoned users and newbies, there can be a lot of questions around which option is best for you. When looking for retinol, there’s a term you want to see sitting alongside it, and that’s ‘encapsulated’. When retinol is encapsulated, it harnesses the ingredient to be slow-releasing and therefore really gentle on even the most sensitive of skins.

esmi Skin Minerals is my preferred brand of retinol because a) it’s encapsulated (and we now know that’s gentle) and b) they offer 4 different levels of strength. If you’re brand new, you can pop online and grab their Level 1 option (0.25 per cent concentration), if you’re a more seasoned user, you can opt for Levels 2, 3 or even 4 (from 0.5 per cent to 1.0 per cent concentration respectively). These variations in concentration make it super easy to increase your retinol percentage step by step, when your skin is ready.

But let’s take a step back first.

What is retinol and why do I need it?

Okay – so retinol is derivative of Vitamin A. Sure, that sounds easy, but what exactly does it do?

There’s a whole number of benefits, and that’s why the buzz around this ingredient is ~real~. Retinol is responsible for stimulating cell turnover (fancy, I know) and helping your skin create more collagen. Collagen is another titillating word in the beauty world, and it’s the stuff in your skin that helps it stay bouncy and elastic. We obviously want more of that. 

Retinol is also exfoliating, so it helps to control your skin’s oil production and decongest any clogged up pores. When your skin turns over more regularly and produces more collagen, you can be waving bye to things like fine lines, pimples, acne scars and unwanted pigmentation.

Sounds pretty good, huh? The thing about that lengthy list of benefits, is there’s something in there for everyone. Meaning, we all want a fat piece of that retinol pie.

Why is encapsulated best?

esmi Encapsulated Retinol. Image: Supplied.

There’s a whole stack of reasons, so let me unpack them. Firstly, the retinol is encased in a cosy and protective layer, which helps keep the ingredient active and stable until it arrives into the deeper layers of skin, where it’s ready to get down to business. 

Secondly, it has an enhanced level of stability, meaning that its potency will last longer in the bottle and therefore can sit for a longer time on your shelf. This is a really important factor, particularly to new users, because we want to introduce this ingredient into your routine gradually.

People tend to be scared of retinol because they hear horror stories about it causing inflamed, irritated and flaky skin. Using encapsulated retinol is one way to avoid heading down that trajectory, as well as starting on the level that’s best for you. 

If it’s your first time, you might apply your retinol serum once a week and slowly build up to three times a week. Slight flaking is normal (although using an encapsulated retinol will limit this), but that’s your skin doing that cell-turnover thing we chatted about earlier. The more you use, the more your skin will build up strength (ahem, collagen).

The keyword when using retinol is: gradual. I think that nicely explains why encapsulated retinol is inherently superior – the release of the retinol itself is gradual, so it’s taking out a lot of the scary hard yards for you.

What else do I need to know?

It’s great if you can find a retinol serum that’s supported by some other skin-loving ingredients, so you’re hitting even more birds, all with one stone. Enter reason c) as to why I love esmi’s encapsulated retinol: it’s filled with a whole lot of delicious oils that your skin will simply squeal over. We’re talking jojoba seed, sunflower, carrot seed and tomato extract.

Here’s a speedy breakdown:

Image: Supplied.

Tomato extract is packed full of antioxidants and prevents collagen from deteriorating (while the retinol is doing the opposite and helping your skin produce more collagen - god, that’s good). It also works as a shield against UV rays and pollution (which can cause premature signs of ageing), and it works hard to control your skin’s oil production.

Carrot Seed Oil is a delightful blend of Vitamins C, A and E – hydrating and promoting even more collagen (can you ever really have enough?).

Sunflower Oil contains linoleic acid which ensures your skin barrier is really strong, so that no moisture can escape those pearly gates (your skin’s outermost layer). 

These are retinol’s best friends: they offer emotional support to your skin barrier, adding glow and whispering sweet nothings in your ear, while retinol works hard to combat congestion and breakouts, ageing, uneven skin texture and tone.

Alright – that was a lot, I know. But instead of being scared of retinol, simply opt for one that’s encapsulated so you can kiss that retinol-induced fear goodbye, and ensure your skin is in good, good hands.

Shop esmi's Encapsulated Retinol range: their high potency, 100 per cent encapsulated, vegan retinol serums developed for superior skin revitalisation.

Use code MAMAMIA to save $20 off any esmi Encapsulated Retinol until November 30, 2022.

Cannot be used in conjunction with other offers.

Feature Image: Getty.