travel

'I went to this underrated Euro destination that's about to be top of everyone's bucket list.'

Albania had been on my travel hit list for a long time. 

Sure, other European countries like Greece, Italy, France, and Portugal were a bit higher ranked. But after seeing a photo of an Albanian beach on Pinterest (back in the days when we still used Pinterest), I'd been clamouring to visit the Eastern European country. 

It's safe to say that I had pretty high expectations when I arrived. And not only were those expectations met, they were exceeded. By a lot.

I had a rough plan to spend about a week in Albania, and wound up staying for close to a month. I hiked in the mountains, plunged into an icy spring, ate my body weight in fresh seafood, took boat trips to secluded beaches, and explored the bustling capital, Tirana. 

Since coming back, I've been telling everyone I meet they need to pay Albania a visit because I reckon within five years, it's going to be up there with Croatia and Greece as a quintessential Euro summer hot spot.

Here’s why.

Watch: Tips from savvy travellers. Post continues after video.


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The beaches are the best in Europe.

Ok, that's a huge call, but hear me out. 

Albania has the same Mediterranean coastline as Italy and Greece, whose beaches you already know are top-notch thanks to them being plastered all over Instagram every July. 

Image: Supplied.

But what Albania doesn’t have is the crowds of people, the eye-wateringly expensive sunlounger rentals, and the €20 Aperol Spritzes. 

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With the exception of a few touristy spots around Sarande, most of Albania’s beaches are relaxed and sparsely populated… if not fully empty. A lot of the most beautiful beaches I visited were only accessible by the water. 

My top tip is to base yourself in the small beach town of Himare, where you can get a cheap Airbnb right by the water. There’s also an ancient crumbling castle perched atop a cliff with amazing views, where you can rent a room or an apartment.

From Himare you can take boat trips up the coast, stopping in at rocky coves where you can swim in perfect water the colour of blue Gatorade. Or if you're feeling energetic, rent a kayak and paddle around the cliffs for a beach picnic where you’ll feel like the only people on earth. 

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The food is as fresh as can be. 

For the most part, Albanian food is pretty similar to other Mediterranean countries — think tomato, olives, and fresh seafood. But it also has a lot of influences from the Eastern European countries around it. In the mountains, you'll get more heavy, meat-based dishes, with plenty of cheese. 

Some things you really have to try:

  • Byrek — a flaky pastry filled with cheese, sometimes meat and veggies too. You can get this at any bakery for usually less than a dollar. 

  • Tavë kosi — the national dish, lamb and rice baked with eggs

  • Qofte — Albanian meatballs

  • Fërgesë — baked cheese with roasted capsicum and tomatoes

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If you're in Tirana, hit up the restaurant Oda for a taste of traditional Albanian cuisine. Just make sure you come hungry.

It's affordable. 

As far as a Euro summer destination goes, Albania is a lot more wallet-friendly than some of the more popular spots. Of course, you can go the budget route, staying in hostels and eating from the bakery and supermarket, and get by on about $40 a day. 

But even if you want to splash the cash, you won't be spending all that much. A beachfront hotel in Himare will set you back about $150 per night, while a four-star hotel in the city of Tirana is around $120 a night. 

Cocktails are about $7 in a nice bar, dinner out can be about $10-20 each depending on what you order, and a good glass of wine is never more than $5. 

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Now can you see why I hung around for so long?

There’s amazing history to discover. 

There's been a lot of war and unrest on the Balkan peninsula in the last 30 years, but it's not something I knew much about before heading to Albania. 

If you're into history, definitely spend a few days in Tirana. Here you can take a walking tour and learn about everything about the country's communist history and war in the 1990s. 

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I'd also really recommend a trip to BunkArt, a huge five-floor underground bunker with 160 rooms left over from the Cold War, which has been turned into a history museum slash contemporary art gallery. 

The hiking is out of this world. 

If you're keen to strap on your hiking boots, Albania is the destination for you. 

The number one hike that most tourists do is the Theth to Valbone, which involves two overnight stays in mountain villages. The hike itself isn’t too long, about six hours with a lot of uphill. Getting there involves a stunning ferry ride across a lake surrounded by mountains and a couple of bus rides. 

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Image: Supplied.

You can definitely organise it solo, but I booked all my transport tickets and the first night’s accommodation through the hostel I stayed at in the nearby town of Shköder, which made it a lot easier. That way, I also met other travellers who I ended up doing the whole hike with. Once you arrive in Theth, you’ll just need to find a spot at one of the guesthouses in town.

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Whatever style of trip you want, it's there. 

Keen to lay on the beach and chill the hell out? Head to Himare. 

Want to party? Sarande is the spot to hit up.

More of a city person who likes the hustle and bustle? Rent an apartment in the heart of Tirane.

Fascinated by ancient towns and villages? Berat is the place for you.

Want to explore the mountains and eat great food? Gjirokaster would be perfect.

Love hiking? Head to Lake Shkodër and the Albanian Alps.

Can't decide? Pack everything into an epic trip where you can check it all off. 

While the train system is nowhere as good as you’d get in Western Europe, it's easy to get between locations with buses and minivans. Just be patient and don't expect everything to be on time. 

Before you head to any overseas destination, check out the latest health and safety advice from Smart Traveller. 

For more from Jemima Skelley, watch her Albania series on YouTube.

Feature image: Supplied. 

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