By MIA FREEDMAN
Melissa McCarthy is on the cover of US Elle this month. A lot of people are excited and I understand why. They should be.
Women larger than a size 0 are almost never allowed to appear on glossy covers unless they are Oprah and they own the magazine.
I know this because I used to be a magazine editor and I only put two women on the cover who weren’t skinny.
And there are a couple of reasons for it.
To sell tens of thousands of copies of a magazine, you need to have a celebrity on the cover and it’s been that way for about 15 years. RIP models. Send flowers (not chocolate).
And although they won’t want you to know this, editors don’t have the final say on their covers. Publishers do. And their decisions are heavily influenced by numbers. They are unlikely to approve an editor’s choice of cover if it has risk attached to it, especially at the moment, when magazine circulation is so incredibly challenged by declining sales.
Low risk means something (or specifically, someone) that’s proven to work. Jennifer Anniston. Cameron Diaz. Gwyneth Paltrow. Kate Hudson. Blake Lively. A sea of bland blondeness, samey and size zero. With the shit photoshopped out of the image.
Here’s what I’ve noticed: when a magazine editor tries to push out that boundary a little, to try something different on the cover (well, different for magazines, it’s relative), people tend to freak out. It’s the covers that break the mould that – ironically – are the most criticised for not doing ENOUGH. For not being different ENOUGH.
Top Comments
I stopped buying fashion mags when I reached my mid-20s. I didn't find them 'aspirational' as is so often argued by editors. Instead, I felt I would never look like the people in those mags or have the things that they had, which made me feel like rubbish. All those mags are the same, peddling us the same impossible ideals. That's why I couldn't understand all the excitement about the new Elle Australia. Isn't it just more of the same?
I think there's a happy medium in there though - between poncho-coat and Beth Ditto, that is perfectly acceptable. Because of her celebrity it may be more forgiven, if it wasn't so strikingly different to the other three covers. I think it was bad styling, at the least and most innocent end of the spectrum. Chances are the multi-cover option for larger celebs is a top-down directive? You can only do it if we have our beach bunny alternative also available? I wonder what production runs are like on various versions.
I think it was Mia as editor at Cosmo who really made the career of Natalie (now) Wakeling? She suffered as a trailblazer, in an industry/stylists/photographers who didn't know quite what to do with her, I think. I met her at her wedding (friend of partner) and she was tall, striking and slender without being waify (think a toned, trim, large frame size 12 and intimidatingly beautiful) - in contrast to her images! The next time was my wedding, she was pregnant, just as intimidatingly stunning!
Definitely nothing 'less than', niche or even 'encouraging unhealthy' about her, she was and is a glamorous model at first sight!
She was 'the' plus size model back then (2000 or so), but her in-person look didn't translate for many years - unless it was just SO unheard of it was comparative difference I was seeing? I do suspect mainstream industry didn't know how to photograph her especially for fashion (she often looked short, squat, like a squished on top image of her actual self).
I'm guessing that wouldn't have helped the cause, either, which is a pity but hindsight is a wonderful thing and it is definitely a style of photo more professionals seem capable of taking these days!
If I had my way, the last thing I'd want - if I were concerned about a 'plus sizer' on my cover, would be to make her look like this. I would want the most flattering image possible. And we all know dark and baggy does not 'slim the figure'. So not sure why they would run with this wardrobe from any angle!