There are 3 things you need to look for in a sunscreen, according to a dermatologist.

It is a truth universally acknowledged that when it comes to skin cancer prevention (and anti-ageing), sunscreen is the holy grail of skincare products. This means I can (thankfully) rest easy knowing that all is right in the world.

But it also means that when it comes to SPF products, your options are pretty limitless. For indecisive people like me, this makes things a little... well, tricky. 

From decoding ingredient lists to standing there helplessly in the sunscreen aisle as you ponder all the different selections, it’s all just very overwhelming. If there’s one step you want to get right in your skincare routine, it’s this one. 

To help us confused gals out, dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald spoke to Mamamia on all things sunscreen. Here’s what she said we need to know.

How do I know a ‘good’ sunscreen from a ‘bad’ one? 

This tends to be the most challenging feat when it comes to picking a sunscreen. How do I actually know if I’m picking up a good one? Well, Dr McDonald says it’s all in the label (and formula).

Basically, “in Australia we should be looking for sunscreen that is TGA approved. These are manufactured and labelled differently to secondary sunscreens,” she tells Mamamia.

From there, we should be considering the type of coverage it provides. 

“We should then look at the labelling to ensure it is high SPF (50+) and also labelled ‘broad spectrum’. SPF, which stands for Sun Protection Factor, is a measure of how many times longer you are protected from UVB rays before you will burn, when compared to no protection at all. Broad spectrum means that the product is also proven to adequately protect against UVA light which is important to reduce both skin cancer and premature ageing,” Dr McDonald explains.

Another helpful tip? Dr McDonald suggests choosing a sunscreen that is lightweight and has a feel-good formula. Why? Well, you’re more likely to wear it every single day if you like the feel of it. 

To ensure it minimises irritation or allergy for sensitive skin, it should be fragrance free, too. 

After speaking with Dr McDonald, I went on a bit of a hunt to find a sunscreen that ticks all these features. Naturally, La Roche-Posay supplied the answer. (Repeat after me: La Roche-Posay always has the answer.)

In case you don’t know them, though, let me introduce you. La Roche-Posay is the number one brand recommended by dermatologists worldwide. Their formulas are dermatologically tested and are tailored to specific skin types. Translation: they’re researched-backed and very good at what they do. 

The Anthelios Invisible Fluid is a daily sunscreen made for every skin type. It’s a very high broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 50+ coverage against UVA and UVB rays. To make sure it sits seamlessly under or over makeup, it’s a super lightweight formula. It’s fragrance-free and dermatologically tested for sensitive skin, and is also non-comedogenic so it will not clog your pores. (Heck yes.)

Others to know about are the Anthelios XL Anti-Shine Dry Touch, designed for oily, acne-prone skin, and the Anthelios Ultra, which is specially formulated for sensitive skin. It's also anti-eye stinging and hypoallergenic. Like their Invisible Fluid sibling, these bad boys also have very high broad spectrum with SPF 50+ coverage.

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What the heck is the difference between UVA and UVB?

Good question.

Basically, they are two types of ultraviolet radiation and despite their differences, both pose a risk to your skin and contribute to the development of skin cancer and premature ageing. 

However, there is a slight difference in how they both affect your skin. 

“UVB penetrates the more superficial layer of the skin, known as the epidermis. UVB causes direct damage to the skin cells (sunburn) and results in the majority of DNA damage. Down the track, these cells may remain abnormal and may become cancerous,” Dr McDonald explains. 

Dr McDonald says that UVA has a longer wavelength which means it penetrates deeper, down into the dermis. 

“UVA causes more damage to the collagen and elastin fibres which give our skin thickness, strength and elasticity. Therefore, UVA is largely responsible for thinning of the skin, wrinkling and other signs of premature ageing via direct damage and by activating the enzymes that break down collagen,” she tells Mamamia. 

Another key difference? UVB is at higher levels during the summer months while UVA is more consistent throughout the entire year. 

“UVA can penetrate through clouds and glass and is less obvious to us as we don’t feel the heat and burning on the skin, which we do from UVB,” she adds.

What’s the difference between a chemical and physical sunscreen? 

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To simplify the science, Dr McDonald explains that “both chemical and physical sunscreens work by sitting in the outer layer of non-viable skin cells.” This is where they absorb UV light. But there are some differences in how they’re made and how they work.

“'Synthetic’ sunscreens, which are also known as ‘chemical’ or ‘organic’ sunscreens, are specific chemicals that are designed to absorb UV light. The UV is then transmitted into a very low heat energy. The reason that they have a limited longevity is because they are broken down by sunlight and can also reach ‘capacity’ where they can't absorb and further,” Dr McDonald explains. 

‘Physical’ sunscreens also absorb UV light but they reflect it, too. 

“The one thing that many people don’t understand is that the combination of physical and chemical sunscreens tend to work synergistically to give a higher SPF than either alone,” she shares.

Where does all the confusion actually come from, though? Dr McDonald says it’s all in the ‘organic’ versus ‘inorganic’ debate. 

“In chemistry, organic chemicals are those that have been typically derived from plants or other living matter. Inorganic matter includes minerals and metals and non-living things from the earth,” she tells Mamamia.

“The problem is that society now more frequently uses the term ‘organic’ in the context of organic farming and produce that has been made with ‘natural’, sometimes chemical-free ingredients. So, there’s a lot of confusion around organic sunscreen being a chemical sunscreen, rather than natural and chemical-free.”

Healthy skin is in. Remember to protect your skin with La Roche-Posay every day, available at Australian pharmacies. 

Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF50+ is the #1 sunscreen in Australian pharmacy, based on IRI MarketEdge, AU Pharmacy Scan, Unit & Value Sales, Total Suncare Protection Category, MAT 30/10/2022.

Feature Image: Canva.